Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of cities cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their younger generation are reluctant to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to discover these stories and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
