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When assembling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary honour.